DAY 40: Where are all wildebeests?

Believe it or not, but tonight is our last night in the Serengeti. Yep, time flies when you're having fun! Last night in Lobo public campsite was exhilarating to say the least as all sorts of animals surrounded our tent. Here's a better view of our campsite next to one of Lobo's hills.

Lobo public campsite

Our last full day in the park was not as productive as others when it came to the cats, although we still saw six lions and three cheetahs in the distance. However, we did see loads of elephant and buffalo, along with some other more common species we haven't given much attention to on the blog thus far, including topi and Thompson's gazelle.

Elephants on the plains

We saw more than 500 buffalo today!

A topi family

The Serengeti's springboks - Thompson's gazelles

"Where are all the wildebeest???" I hear you ask. Remember, the migration is currently moving through the short grass plains south-east of where we are currently camping. We only saw the tip of the iceberg when we passed through the Ndutu area on our first day. The plan is to head back down to those plains very early tomorrow morning to catch up with the massive herds again! Watch this space!

And so our time in the Serengeti comes to an end. It's difficult to put my feelings about this place into words. It's vast. It's incredibly diverse, both in terms of wildlife and scenery. It's wild, if you drive and sleep in the right places. And it's mystical - there's something about the Serengeti that makes my heart beat just a little bit faster...in a very good way!  I hope to come back...soon.

I'll miss the cats, but...

...I'll miss the scenery more!

From here we'll head for Simba A campsite on the Ngorongoro Crater rim where we'll sleep for the following two nights. We enter the crater on Wednesday. Thanks for those of you who gave us advice on the Serengeti and the crater in your posts - we appreciate it very much! Sorry for not replying to those individually. We try to keep our computer time to a limit so that we can spend more time chatting around the fire and making dinner together...

Before I end the post I just want to congratulate Ji and his girlfriend Talita - it's their 3 year anniversary today!! Ji has already found a spot on the Hyena's roof where the signal is strong enough for Talita to phone him later tonight. Please don't fall off my friend!!

Ji and Talita (taken in Kruger)

Ji on top of the Hyena, expecting a call a bit later...

Lala Salama

Villiers

Highlight of the day:

Villiers: Hundreds of elephant and buffalo on the open plains!

Ji: The cheetahs! Hehe, just kidding - OUR THREE YEAR ANNIVERSARY! Baie lief vir jou Skapie!!! xxx

Lowlight of the day:

Villiers: D U S T!!!!

Ji: That Talita isn't here with me

DAY 39: 'L' if for Lobo, leopards and lions!

Hi! I hope you all had a fantastic Sunday and that you enjoyed catching up on our weekend posts. We've had the most incredible day in the most incredible part of the Serengeti - Lobo, but before I tell you about our sightings, let me tell you about our campsite! We're camping at Lobo public campsite and we're the only people here. It's located in a breathtakingly beautiful section of the park, which is really hilly and rocky, but not without open plains and tons of game. If you look carefully you'll spot our campsite in the top right of the photo below, along with the Lobo lodge top left.

The area around Lobo with a herd of topi in the foreground

The campsite feels the wildest we've stayed in yet, probably because we're alone, but also because we saw so many animals close by today! Right now there's a group of buffalo and a spotted hyena right outside the little thatched shed we've retreated into. 

Okay, you must be dying to know what we saw today!?  Well, the morning started off relatively slow, but as always we saw massive herds of zebra along the streams. Then Ji (who's becoming the master spotter!) noticed a figure on the bank of a small river. No, there were two! It was a couple of lionesses who had taken interest in the strings of zebra that were now walking past them in the background. We must have sat with them for nearly 90 minutes, but the zebras never came close enough for them to give it a go... On the way back to camp Ji spotted another leopard - this time a young female resting on a rock not more than 5 minutes from camp.

Two lionesses stalking zebra

Back at Lobo public campsite we used the opportunity to wash our clothes and take a 3-hour nap!

After our exciting morning drive we set out for an afternoon safari full of expectation! Again it started slow, but then we found a large herd of 200 buffalo. Whilst we were caught in a battle with what seemed like a million tsetse flies I spotted two silhouetted figures on a fallen branch ahead of us. Lion cubs! We passed the two playing youngsters to get golden sunlight on their bodies when two more cubs appeared from the left. The four siblings played in front of us for a while before we noticed an adult female no more than 30 metres behind them. And then another one. And then another one! But this lioness was way over on our left, busy stalking more zebra!! And then a male arrived!! It was lion-madness! 

Two of the four lion cubs playing on a fallen tree trunk

One of the massive, healthy lionesses

The lion family

To make a very exciting, but long, story short - the huntress waited patiently and flat on the ground for nearly an hour without any success. The zebra just wouldn't come close enough. The rest of the lion family watched her lying in the grass the whole time, until she finally gave up just before sunset. At this stage they all came together, except for the male, who stayed next to our car. He looked like he would be good in a bar fight! He watched us intently and almost didn't let us pass on our way back to camp. Speaking of which - just before we reached the campsite we found yet another leopard in the road! This time an adult female. She was extremely relaxed and on the move. Watching her walk past our car (without any other vehicles around) and into the last bit of light on the horizon was pure magic... I'm so glad we decided to stay an extra day...at Lobo!

The perfect ending to the day!!!

I hope you enjoyed today's post! Have a wonderful week!!

Villiers

Highlight of the day:

Villiers: The second leopard sighting

Ji: All the lions

Lowlight of the day:

Villiers: The climb up the stairs at Serengeti Migration Camp at 06:00 - with ALL my gear, and more, over my shoulders.

Ji: That the zebras didn't come closer to the lions!

DAY 38: Serengeti Migration Camp

As always, we got up very early to depart on our morning safari before sunrise. This time we headed for the rocky region around Lobo in the north-east of Serengeti National Park. I've always wanted to see cheetahs on the Serengeti Plains, but the one thing I wanted to see more, was a pride of lions on a rock! Since I started doing research on the Serengeti more than a year ago, I've seen countless photographs of lions sunbathing on the park's picturesque kopjes. And this morning I found my lions!

Near Lobo public campsite we came across two massive male lions resting on a large rock right next to the road. We were just in time to see the sun's first rays light up their massive bodies. There was no sign of them getting up, so we left them to continue their morning nap. The whole area around Lobo is not only incredibly scenic, but also full of game. We saw literally thousands of zebra along the watercourses, along with large herds of buffalo and elephants. Ji also spotted a large male leopard resting on a rock. See whether you can spot it:

Can you spot the leopard???

Two brothers on a rock

Zebras crossing a small river

Male models

We loved the area around Lobo so much that we booked an additional night in the Serengeti. Instead of heading back to Seronera tomorrow, we'll first spend a night at Lobo public campsite. The view from there is the best I've seen in the park so far and there's sure to be action around camp both during the day and at night!

A colourful rock agama near Lobo public campsite

During our morning safari we enjoyed a delicious breakfast packed by Elewana Afrika's Serengeti Migration Camp. We found ourselves a nice little viewpoint next to the river and devoured the muffins, croissants, Chelsea buns, bacon, sausages, yoghurt, muesli and other goodies in our cooler box. What a feast!

Picnic in the Serengeti

Since we'll be spending an additional day in the park we decided to make the most of things and spend the afternoon in camp. The lodge is extremely relaxing and with free Wi-Fi and always-willing-to-fill-your-glass waiters, we couldn't have been more comfortable. And then something extraordinary happened!

Next to one of the lodge's wooden walkways a dassie (hyrax) mother gave birth to two tiny, wet bundles of fur right in front of our eyes! At first we kept our distance, but as soon as we realised how relaxed she was, we slowly moved closer for a better view. We used "stokkam" (the GoPro Hero video camera on the end of the fishing rod) to get close up footage of the spectacle. The mother ignored us, whilst the babies (who we named Gopie and Hero) first stumbled and later played in front of the camera - AMAZING!!! 

Ji with "stokkam"

Gopie and Hero next to the GoPro Here video camera

The dassies are not the only creatures in camp. On our way to our tent we were greeted by two giraffes and under the tent-decks I saw two klipspringers escaping the heat. Apparently a family of warthogs rest under the main area's deck and a troop of vervet monkeys 'joined' us for lunch. There's also a ton of birds around the lodge grounds and right throughout the day you hear hippos calling from the nearby Grumeti River.

We used the rest of the afternoon to nap, swim, check e-mails and record interviews for our documentary. After a late afternoon shower the sun came out, only to set again in spectacular fashion. And there's no better place to watch it go down than on the sunset deck at Serengeti Migration Camp!

Sunset at Serengeti Migration Camp

Here's some more photos of this stunning lodge:

Ji enjoyes the Wi Fi in the lodge's comfortable lounge

The view from our tent

Serengeti Migration Camp's main area

The lodge is beautifully lit at night

One of the highlights has been the food served here. Every meal has been simply delightful and tonight it reached its climax with the desert - the Migration Chocolate Bomb! You've never tasted a chocolate desert so good!! We'd like to thank Stanford, Elly and the rest of the Serengeti Migration Camp team for your hospitality - we've enjoyed every second in your wonderful camp! And again, thanks to Elewana Afrika and Shaun and Elcke of Tarangire Treetops for making this visit possible.

So, before I end, I just want to know: did you spot the leopard??

There he is!!

Have a great Sunday!

Villiers

Highlight of the day:

Villiers: Lions on the rock

Ji: To speak to my girlfriend

Lowlight of the day:

Villiers: Honestly - there wasn't one

Ji: When my migration chocolate bomb was finished!!!

DAY 37: Christmas comes early!

Merry Christmas everyone!!! Yep, Christmas came early this year, at least in the Serengeti! It's the 25th of February and Ji and I were spoiled and spoiled ourselves rotten today!

First we went on the ultimate Serengeti safari, in a hot-air balloon! And then we booked into Serengeti Migration Camp - one of the most exclusive lodges in the park, all thanks to Elewana Africa (and of course Shaun and Elcke of Tarangire Treetops).

Ready for take-off!

The second balloon takes to the air

Up, up and away!

We got up at 04:45 and departed to the balloon launch site at 05:15. We both felt a bit jittery, not knowing exactly what to expect. The balloons were filled with air before sunrise and before we knew it we were in the air. Apart from the odd burst of flames every now and then the flight is completely silent. More flames - more height. Less flames - less height. For the first time in my life I had an idea how of how an eagle must feel when is soars over the plains in search of prey. I didn't want it to stop.

Pure Serengeti magic!

The duration of the trip depends on the wind speed, because there's nothing allowing you to make the balloon go faster or slower. On a windy day you might be up in the air for 45 minutes only before you run out of landing space and on a good day it may take 90 minutes. We were up for approximately an hour. 

The spectacular view from the balloon

Two little boys on early Christmas Day

Game viewing from the air was not as good as it could be, but sightings included bat-eared foxes, a spotted hyena, elephant, buffalo and the first porcupine seen from the air by our pilot, Jason Adams. Jason has been a pilot in the Serengeti for a year now and intends to stay for another. We enjoyed his dry sense of humour immensely, not only during the flight, but also afterwards during the bush breakfast, when he sat next to Ji.

Before breakfast, however, we enjoyed a traditional glass of champagne (or two) on the Serengeti plains. Our neighbours from Nguchiro had too much! From the landing site we were transported to a spot along a small river where we enjoyed a full English breakfast. What a morning! What a place! What an experience! Was it worth the $499US/person? That's a topic for another day... :)

Cheers!

Bush breakfast

After the balloon safari, which ended at 10:15, we quickly packed up camp and headed for the northern part of the park where we'll be staying for the next two nights. Shaun and Elcke of Tarangire Treetops arranged for us to stay at Serengeti Migration Camp - a luxury camp on the bank of the Grumeti River - one of the two major rivers that the wildebeest migration must cross at certain times of the year. The herds might not be here now, but the lodge and surroundings are spectacular! Here's a sneak peak at the main area, but you'll have to wait for the next post to see more fantastic lodge photos, together with some animal photos we hope to take in the Lobo game viewing area.

Our home for the next two nights

Thanks again to Elewana Africa for making this visit possible!

And now to answer a question a few of you asked: What is our trip theme song? It's "Sonrotse" by Die Heuwels Fantasties. Yep - local is lekker!!! Do yourself a favour and go listen to it. It has evokes incredible emotion.

Have a great Friday!

Villiers

PS:  After reading a few of my previous posts a bit earlier I realised just how many spelling error I'm making! Sorry about those - you'll just have to take them as you get them :) The lodge has free Wi-Fi, which is a huge bonus! Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately) we don't have cellphone signal here.

Highlight of the day:

Villiers and Ji: The Balloon safari

Lowlight of the day:

Villiers: ...that it had to come to an end!

Ji: Having to do the balloon safari with Villiers instead of Talita

DAY 36: A Grand Slam game drive!!!

After 36 days and 8000 kilometres on the road we were treated to a morning safari that we'll never forget! Few other places in Africa are able to produce what we dubbed the "Grand Slam of game drives". We got up at 05:15 after a very busy night in Nguchiro campsite. Everything that could trumpet, roar, whoop and bark, did so...right throughout the night! There were buffalo sleeping 10 metres from our tent and hyenas trying sniffing at our table.

We left camp at 06:00 and aimed for the scenic Moru Kopjes where we spent yesterday afternoon. We just loved the landscape there and hoped to spend the whole morning there looking for black rhinos. But no more then three kilometres outside camp the unexpected appeared in front of us in the road: 16 tiny lion cubs came ambling along towards us without their parents. Yes! Sixteen!! I'm very poor at judging age, but the majority of them were approximately four or five months old, if not less. Then there were three or four of them that were even younger, but equally brave as their older brothers and sisters. 

Only some of the lion cubs we found in the road...

Lions cubs in beautiful golden light!

The cubs were extremely relaxed, even without the protection of their mothers, and played right in front of the Hilux. We watched them for nearly two hours! The biggest bonus was that we had found them on a road that is seldom driven and as a result only three cars saw them, including us. It was a very special, private experience. It will go down as one of my best lion sightings ever!!!

To cute for words

The cubs eventually walked to a nearby kopje and disappeared amongst the rocks and bushes. Soon after we left them we came across four black-backed jackal pups that were even more curious than the lion cubs. One walked right up to Stick Cam or "Stokkam" as we now call it - this is the GoPro video camera fastened to the end of a fishing rod. The footage of the little jackal sticking his nose right into the camera is priceless!

A young black-backed jackal

Our safari continued to produce mega-sightings and by 10:30 we had seen two cheetah brothers on an open plain and a leopard female in a tree, completing the Grand Slam of cat sightings on our morning drive! This doesn't happen often.

One of two cheetah brothers

Back at camp we watched a herd of elephant walk by, ignoring us as usual. It really is a wild place this! I'm sure you've been wondering what it looks like at a public campsite in the Serengeti, so here's a look at Nguchiro:

Nguchiro public campsite, Seronera, Serengeti

Life in our campsite

As always we took an afternoon nap and then headed out on another drive, which didn't produce any significant sightings. We did see the lion cubs again, but they were hidden in tall grass. We're packing up most of our camp tonight, because tomorrow is a very important day for the Serengeti Trip. We're getting up early to...no, wait - you'll just have to read all about it tomorrow evening! 

Thanks again for all the wonderful comments! And Ben, I wish there was time to blog twice a day - believe me, we have more than enough images and stories to share...

Bye for now

Villiers

Highlight of the day:

Villiers and JI: 16 lions cubs in the road!

Lowlight of the day:

Villiers: Not being able to spend 7 months here!

JI: The lion cubs not revealing themselves again in the afternoon.

DAY 35: Expectation, disappointment, surprise!

Can you believe it - we're halfway through the Serengeti Trip 2011! This fact shocked us a bit this morning when we set out on yet another game drive. In some ways it feels like we departed from Pretoria yesterday, but mostly it feels like we've been away from home for a looooong time. It's hard to believe we have still so much to see, experience and enjoy.

Today was an emotional day on safari. Both Ji and I arrived in the Serengeti with great expectations - large prides of lions, cheetahs sitting on termite mounds, leopards in trees and of course thousands upon thousands of wildebeest! These are the images you see in your mind when you think of this iconic park. But experienced 'bush people' as ourselves should know better than to think that what you see on the documentaries and in magazines is what you'll see on game drives, at least when you only have one week in the park! Those images take years to collect!

Our great expectations quickly turned into disappointment when our morning drive produced very little to get excited about. We drove next to a beautiful stream, but not even the massive fever trees or palms could cheer us up. When the bush is quiet like this it's hard not to start thinking: "WHY?? We get up early, drive good roads at good speeds at good times...and still - nothing! WHY? WHY? WHY?" We decided to go back to camp a bit earlier than usual just to get some rest. It didn't help that our American neighbours saw two prides of lions and cheetahs on their safari! 

A pearl-spotted owlet seen on our morning safari

There's nothing like an afternoon nap to...no, not make you feel better - make you feel like an elephant sat on your head! I got up all sweaty from the heat and a bit disorientated after dreaming that I won a 200m sprint..against girls!??? Cold showers, however, did the trick and woke us both up properly. We set off again at 15:15, this time to the Moru Kopjes.

As it goes in any game reserve in Africa, the tables turned. And it didn't turn just a little bit! We saw tones of general game, as well as three lions and two leopards! The first leopard was a shy young female that ran towards a nearby kopje for some shelter, only to notice two lions lying on top. This made her stop dead in her tracks and slink down low to the ground. And there she stayed for about an hour. The second leopard was also a small female, but this one was extremely relaxed! She walked right past our car (and a million others) in stunning golden light!

Our first, shy leopard for this afternoon

And leopard number two - this time VERY relaxed

Leopard sighting madness!

The leopards were great, but what I enjoyed most about today was seeing Seronera's many faces - the landscape changes around every corner. Each scene more beautiful than the previous! As the sun set over the Serengeti plains, Ji and I put on our favourite trip song and just soaked it all in - this place is very special indeed!

Lake Makgadi

Elephants in a typical Seronera scene

When we got back to our campsite a herd of elephant were feeding no more than 15 metres from our tent! A crowd had gathered and in a wonderful moment that lasted about 20 minutes or so, humans and elephants were living together, respecting each other in every way. The scene was incredible!

Our camp is now full of other guests, but fortunately most of them go to bed relatively early. We, on the other hand, sit up every evening to listen to the night sounds. We haven't heard lions yet, but hyenas are very vocal right throughout the night, along with the resident froggies in the adjacent stream. The campsite has a wonderful wild feel to it! 

At this stage, halfway through our trip, I'd like to thank our sponsors again for their support! This post would not be possible without our Sat4Rent satellite equipment and data, and Ji wouldn't have been able to take such great wildlife photos without his lens, sponsored by Outdoorphoto! You'll have to wait for the GoPro footage, as well as the footage taken with the equipment sponsored by Clive Morris Productions...

Enjoy the second half of the Serengeti Trip 2011 and keep commenting, please - we LOVE it!

Cheers

Villiers

PS:  Ek wil al ons vriende net weer herinner om Saterdagaand die 2de April oop te hou - ons gaan GROOT kuier!!!

Highlight of the day:

Villiers: The scenery around Seronera!

JI: Celebrating halfway on such a high note!

Lowlight of the day:

Villiers: Our disappointment after a quiet morning safari

JI: That the trip is already halfway through