What can we expect in East Africa?

The biggest fear I have about this trip is the fear of the unknown. There are so many questions circling in my mind every evening: Will we get fuel at regular intervals? How bad are the border posts really? Is it a good idea to go in the rainy season? Where do we get clean water?

Books can only give you so much information and, more importantly, you can't ask it any questions! So, to get some peace of mind, JI and I decided to pick the brain of good friend, Zander van der Westhuizen. Zander and two friends drove from Pretoria to Dar Es Salaam and back in December 2004. They camped most evenings on their six-week journey and also used only one vehicle.

Zander shows JI where the small town of Isoka is.

It's amazing how many tips you can get from someone who's done a similar trip! Things like: where to get the right kind of insurance; what medication proved to be the most crucial; what not to do at border posts; and which little campsites are the best along the way.

Zander points out the town of Kabwe on the Great North Road in Zambia.

Fortunately the two hours spent with Zander did only one thing - getting us even more excited about the trip! And now we are that little bit closer to being well prepared for our adventure. Thank you, Zander, for sharing all your amazing stories with us and for all the invaluable travel tips! 

To get a better idea of what the area looks like we bought the Voetspore 3 DVD - Cape to Kilimanjaro.

Voetspore 3 DVD cover

In this series, Johan Badenhorst and his team drive from Cape Town to Mount Kilimanjaro in three Nissan Patrols over the same time that we are going to be on the road. They drove many of the roads we are going to drive and visited quite a few of the parks we hope to see. Some of the episodes gave us a very good idea of what to expect in East Africa. You can read more about the Voetspore team here.

The more information we gather, the more exciting it gets! Less than two months before departure...!

Villiers Steyn

Mense van Afrika

Ek was die afgelope week op 'n uitreik in Mosambiek en het moeilike, lang paaie trotseer, maar  dit was alles die moeite werd! Wanneer jy in Afrika is en met mense in aanraking kom, daar in hul eenvoudige lewensomstandighede, besef jy net weer dat jou 'moeilike' omstandighede eintlik niks is nie...

                              JI saam met die Mapai-gemeenskap se kinders.

Ons het gereis na Mapai, 'n klein spoordorpie in die Gaza Provinsie van Mosambiek. Ons het deur die Pafuri Grenspos tussen die Nasionale Krugerwildtuin en die Nasionale Limpopo Park (Mosambiek) gery. In Mosambiek voel dit egter nie asof jy in 'n wildtuin ry nie, aangesien die strook langs die Limpoporivier redelik dig bewoon is.

Orals op ons reis het ons in aanraking met die mense van Afrika gekom, en watter vriendelike mense is hul nie! Altyd bereid om jou met 'n glimlag te groet, maak nie saak hoe warm en stowwerig dit is nie. Vir hierdie mense gaan die lewe nie oor selfverryking nie, maar eerder oor daaglikse oorlewing. Ek kon nie help om te wonder of ek 'n week in hulle omstandighede sou oorleef nie. Klein kleigehuggies is hulle wonings, en water sekerlik die waardevolste natuurbron in die omgewing. Ten spyte van die feit dat hulle elke dag sukkel om te oorleef, straal daar nogsteeds lewensvreugde uit hul gesigte - 'n vreugde wat jou aansteek en met 'n glimlag op jou gesig laat...

Dit maak my weer opnuut opgewonde oor die verskillende mense wat ons volgende jaar gaan raakloop en die omstandighede waarmee hulle elke dag moet leef!

Hilux: The first big test...in Hwange!

After fitting the Toyota Hilux with a drawers system, aluminium canopy, two roof racks, a rooftop tent, a dust-prootfstrip and a pair of spotlights, it was time to test the vehicle in the field. What better place to put it through the ropes as Zimbabwe's Hwange National Park!?

Hwange National Park is home to one of the largest elephant populations in the world.

In August 2010 Villiers, his dad Francois, and friend David Morinelli (from Miami) visited Hwange for a week, testing the Hilux mostly on bumpy and corrugated gravel roads. It was also a great test for the drawers and aluminium canopy, as well as the two roof racks and rooftop tent.

The Hilux on it's first trip after the big face lift!

One of many fantastic hides in the park. This is where it all happens!

Time for a drink at Nyamandlovu hide near Main Camp.

Initally we planned to camp every night, but eventually we ended up camping only three nights - one at Nata Lodge in Botswana and two nights at Masuma in Hwange. It still gave up the chance to test the rooftop tent and the comfort level of the new drawers and aluminium cab.

Our camp at Masuma Dam.

David quickly grabs something form the fridge. Thanks to the drawers it takes only a second or two.

To our delight everything worked. It worked very well! There's no comparison between camping with the standard fibreglass canopy and the aluminium cab! The fact that you can open the side flaps makes a huge difference! The drawers are also extremely handy and ideal for small things you need to reach for often, such as your laptop or extra drinks.

Just another stunning sunset in Africa!

At the end of the trip the verdict was unanimous - the Hilux performed like a star and is nearly ready for the big Serengeti Trip! The suspension support worked like a gem and virtually no dust was sucked into the back. The front roof rack was also the ideal place to fasten three of our crates.

The Hwange trip was a huge success! And the park surprized us all - the people are friendly and ready for the world to return. The waterholes are full and teaming with game, the camps are clean and neat, there's fuel in the towns and shops are well-stocked! There's no reason not to visit Hwange anymore!

Hilux Facelift Part VII: Suspension support

After fitting the Toyota Hilux with a drawer system and Alu-Cab on the back, and then bolting the roof top tent to the top, the back of the car was sagging too much for comfort. In order to lift the back a bit, the vehicle was fitted with Loadhog suspension support on the rear leaf springs. This was a quick 20-minute job and made all the difference!

One of the two Loadhog suspension support blades above the rear leaf springs.

If you allow the vehicle's back to sag too much, it will eventually get damaged on bumpy, uneven roads as the suspension is unable to carry the weight. To see how the Hilux progessed to this stage, visit the Hilux Transformation page.

Hilux Facelift Part VI: No more dust!

Dust. Dust. DUST! One of the biggest frustrations on Africa's back roads is sucking in dust into your canopy, covering all your belongings in thick layer every time you drive on a gravel road. For this reason I didn't hesitate to fit the back flap of the Hilux with a thin, dust-proof strip.

This simple piece of rubber film keeps most of the dust out of the canopy!

It might seem like a small, unnecessary thing, but believe me - it's worth it! This one was fitted at Safari Centre. And here's something important to remember: Fit the dust-proof strip BEFORE you fit the drawers, because it goes underneath. If you wait till after, the drawers will have to be undone and lifted to get the strip in underneath. The Hilux is nearing the end of its transformation. Look out for the final look on the Hilux Transformation page.

Hilux Facelift Part V: Front roof rack

One roof rack on the back was never going to be enough. We will need space for a second spare wheel, two gas bottles, two jerry cans and other odds and ends such as wood, crates, etc. For these we decided to fit a front roof rack from African Outback. Apart from brackets for the gas bottles and jerry cans, it also has a side-bracket for a high-lift jack.

The front roof rack with high-lift jack and three crates.

The front roof rack from above.

Apart from an additional structure to carry some of the load, a front roof rack also becomes a great vantage point from which to take photographs of the vehicle in its surroundings! I have a suspicion that we'll be spending a lot of time up there on our big trip! Follow the Hilux's transformation on the Hilux Transformation page.

Hilux Facelift Part IV: Rooftop tent

I've never been a big fan of rooftop tents. They're claim to fame is the fact that they are so "easy" to open and close, saving you lots of time setting up camp. There are, however, quite a few drawbacks to rooftop tents. For one, you need to close them every time you want to go on a game drive - something that can be extremely annoying when you are camping in one spot for a long time. Then there's a space issue - you can't stand inside and it gets very tight when you are two people inside. Despite my reserves about it, I decided to fit an old rooftop tent of my dad's, just for a test run.

Step one: Remove the canvas cover.

Step two: Pull the tent open by pulling on the ladder and pushing from the other side.

Step four: Pull the tent all the way open and fit the ladder and window poles.

Step four: All you have to do now is put your bedding inside and you're done!

Once it's up a rooftop tent really does look impressive, but I'm still not convinced that it's a better option than a simple three-man tent on the ground. Only time will tell whether we take the rooftop tent with to the Serengeti... Follow the Hilux's progress on the Hilux Transformation page.

Hilux Facelift Part III: Alu-Cab

Fitting the custom drawers in the back was only the first step to making packing as easy as possible in the back. The next step was to replace the standard fibreglass canopy with an aluminium canopy. 

The Hilux with its origional fibreglass canopy.

After looking at different models, it was decided to fit an Alu-Cab with flaps on both sides, as well as a full-length flap at the back. With all three flaps open everything on the inside is within arm's length. This comes in especially handy at border posts and road blocks where officials want to have a quick look at your vehicle's contents, or simply when you want to take out something small from the back at a picnic spot on the roadside.

With all three flaps of the Alu-Cab open, nothing is hard to reach anymore.

The drawers and aluminium canopy used together - easy as pie to get to grab someting from the fridge!

All the flaps of the aluminium canopy can lock, providing even more protection to the valuables inside. The canopy was designed with a roof rack on top, and in the next post we look at the rooftop tent. Keep following the progress on the Hilux Transformation page.

Hilux Facelift Part II: Spotlights

Step two in the Hilux's transformation was to fit a pair of spotlights on the front. Although we don't plan to drive at night, you never know when a breakdown or other unforeseen circumstances force you to take on the dangerous African roads at night. The biggest danger is livestock and wildlife that crosses the road. Hitting a cow or kudu could mean the end of the trip, not to mention the end of lives...

A brand new pair of spotlights fitted!

It was decided to fit the spotlights low on the front bumper to allow maximum support and minimum vibration to the brackets. Fitting the spotlights to the roof rack can cause an irritating reflection on the bonnet and therefore this option wasn't even considered.

Now that we have our drawers and extra powerful lights it's time for an aluminium cab. Follow the Hilux's facelift on the Hilux Transformation page - the end result will be impressive!

Thanks for the inspiration!

Every traveller and adventurer needs inspiration when he or she plans a big trip! Sometimes it's as simple as someone saying: "Go for it! You can do it!" and sometimes it's reading about someone who has already done something incredible - an inspiring trip full of exploration and adventure. That's when I think: If they can do it, so can I!

I'm blessed to have been raised by parents who always did their best to show us different parts of Southern Africa and who have always supported every single idea of mine, no matter how big or crazy it seemed at the time... They are and always have been a great inspiration to me!

And then there's Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman!!!

These two friends have completed two epic journeys on motorbikes: First The Long Way Round - a trip from London to New York, driving east!...and second The Long Way Down - a trip from Scotland to Cape Town! Few documentaries have made me so excited about travelling and Africa as The Long Way Down!! 18 countries and 15000 miles in 85 days! It was the two men's incredible relationship (through some very tough times) that inspired me so much and I'm excited to share the Serengeti Trip 2011 with someone like JI.

When it comes to extreme there's no one quite as adventurous as David Griers and Braam Malherbe!

David and Braam have achieved something that many believed was impossible - they ran the length of the Great Wall of China (a full 4000km) in less than four months! They did this to raise money for the Miles for Smiles charity and proved that when you put your mind to something (and your heart and soul as well) you can overcome any obstacles and make your dreams come true!

Kingsley all the way!

Kingsley Holgate and his team have driven all over Africa in their Land Rovers making a real difference in people's lives with the various projects they have initiated. It's impossible not to want to travel through the Dark Continent if you read one his trip reports. Their great work in Africa is the ultimate inspiration!

Last but definitely not least there is my brother, Francois, and his wife, Tania.

Visit www.aroundsa.co.za to read more about their awesome trip!

This couple is truly wild at heart! In 2009 they bought two 125cc motorbikes and drove around South Africa (6000km) in only 19 days! Their spirit of adventure and exploration, together with the love of simplicity has always inspired me to think of new and exciting trips in South Africa. I thank the Lord for a brother and sister in law like this!

So, thanks to these adventurous souls, and many other people who are living the dream, I am overflowing with inspiration, ready to take on the unknown and to explore the countries, roads and parks that I have read about so much over the past 28 years. 

Villiers

"Always share the adventure!"

Kultuur Safari

Die woord safari word baie keer net met diere en landskappe vergelyk, maar dit is glad nie wat dit waarlik beteken nie.

Hoe toevallig is dit nie, maar hierdie woord kom uit die eerste taal van Tanzania - Swahili. In hierdie taal beteken dit om op reis te gaan, of dalk nog mooier in Engels: "to Journey!" . Ja natuurlik is ek opgewonde om verskillende landskappe en natuurbeelde te sien, maar wat my nog meer opgewonde maak, is die verskillende kulture waarmee ons in aanraking gaan kom.

Op safari in 'n Afrikastad! (foto: iStockphoto)

Tydens ons reis, gaan ons nie net in natuurreservate oornag nie, maar ook in stede. Hier hoop ek om te doen te kry met vriendelike mense, wat ons iets meer van hul kultuur wil leer. (Ek weet net nie so mooi of dit gaan gebeur op die grensposte nie?!) Somtyds wonder ek ook hoe die mense van die verskillende lande verskil? Is die mense van Botswana regtig bot?

Een waarskuwing wat ek ontvang het is dat jy glad nie persoonlike ruimte in die suide van Malawi het nie. Hierdie omgewing is blykbaar heeltemal oorbewoon. My kommer is: Waar gaan ek 'n onopsigtelike boom kry as ek 'n nood het?!

In die bekende film "Blood Diamond", gebruik Arnold Vosloo die term TIA - This Is Africa. Hopelik gaan ons nie hierdie term gebruik vir negatiewe ervarings oor kulture nie, maar net oor die positiewe TIA ervaring!

Hou ons "blog" dop. Ek glo daar gaan nog baie inskrywings wees oor interessante kultuurverskynsels!

Hilux Facelift Part I: Drawers

Finally, the Hilux's facelift has begun! The first step was to fit a drawer system in the back to make packing easier.

Villiers can't contain his excitement when he sees the brand new drawers for the first time!

One of the biggest frustrations on a road trip is packing. Although you can fit a huge amount of stuff in the back of a Hilux bakkie, it can become very cumbersome to pack everything in and out every time you get to a different campsite. And as Murphy would have it, you generally need something that is right at the back and bottom of everything!

So, a decision was made to have the Hilux fitted with a custom drawer system from African Outback. The unit consists of two long drawers with a durable carpet finish. It also has a slide-out top on one side for a fridge, as well as a 50-litre water tank that can be presurised. The water can be accessed right at the back by means of a standard Gardenia-nozzle. Both drawers can lock, making it an ideal storage place for valuables.

Just look at the difference before and after:

The Toyota Hilux before adding the drawers and water tank.

The brand new African Outback drawers make packing so much easier!

The next step will be to fit a pair of spotlights in front. Follow our progress on the Hilux Transformation page as we transform our 2004 Toyota Hilux bakkie into the ultimate off-road vehicle.

A Hilux, of course!

This will be our transport and home during the Serengeti Trip 2011!

"What will you be driving with?" I hear you ask. A Hilux, of course!  I wouldn't want to take on such a long journey through Africa in anything other than a Toyota Hilux. They are vertually indistructable and if you drive sensably it will seldom let you down.

We will be using my 2.7l petrol double cab 4x4. By the time we depart it will probably have about 190 000km on the clock, which is not much for a Hilux! But before we leave, our baby will undergo some dramatic changes, all of which we will post on this blog.

Firstly she is getting a customized drawer system in the back. This will make it much easier to pack and store things in the canopy. Secondly she will be getting a customized aluminium canopy with side doors, making it even simpler to pack and unpack the back! Thirdly she will get a roof rack in front, which will hold one spare wheel, two jerry cans and two gas bottles. Lastly we will add a pullout type awning on the side to provide shade and cover from the rain. This will be especially valuable since we are travelling in summer - the hottest, wettest time of the year!

Our Toyota Hilux before the face-lift.

Keep following our progress with the Hilux's face lift on the Serengeti Trip 2011 blog! We will post photos after every new piece of body and equiment is added!

Getting the most out of Zimbabwe

Originally our plan was to visit only Mana Pools and Matopos in Zimbabwe, but after spending a morning with Ds. Deon van Dyk of NG Skuilkrans in Pretoria our plans have changed slightly...


Deon lived in Zimbabwe for 25 years and it's not difficult to see that he has a passion for the country, its parks and its people. He offered to give us some advice on different roads, reserves and camps, and on top of that he has some great contacts for in case we break down or hit other obstacles along the way.

JI and Deon studies a map of Zimbabwe - so many stunning places, so few days!!

According to Deon, Mana Pools and Matopos are MUST VISIT-destinations! His suggestion is that we cut out the three nights in Lower Zambezi National Park in Zambia and rather use them to visit some of Zimbabwe's other wilder reserves, such as Chizarira and Gonarezhou. This makes a lot of sense, since you can get very similar (and in all likelihood, better) experience to Lower Zambezi in Mana Pools. Deon also convinced us to spend at least one night in or near Kariba town. This makes a lot of sense, since we can buy fresh food here and go past the Zimbabwe National Parks office as well.

After an exciting morning of looking at maps and listening to stories we have decided to cut two days from the 10-day Malawi stage, along with one night at Mapungubwe, and add them together with the three from Lower Zambezi to give us at least six extra days in Zimbabwe! If we enjoy Mana Pools as much as Deon says we will, we might just stay right there on the bank of the Zambezi catching tiger fish! Otherwise we might cut through to Chizarira and then drive down to Matopos via Hwange. We will probably end in Gonarezhou.

Mana Pools in Zimbabwe - a place Deon van Dyk loves and knows very well.

Either way, the information was invaluable and it's a great prospect to visit a few more of Africa's wildest game reserves...! Thank you Deon for your time and wisdom.

Planning and more planning

If you're wondering how we decided on the itinerary, well...it takes a lot of reading, asking and guessing. I spent weeks reading up on the different parks in each country, mostly in travel guides and on internet forums, but also in old magazines. The budget obviously plays a big role in how far you can drive, where you can stay, and how long you can visit. At the end of the day, it was decided to do the trip in very early in the year in order to see the wildebeest hordes in the southern plains of the Serengeti, rather than at the Mara river-crossing. This time of the year is also lush and green, which is great for photography.

Today we had a very good look at the itinerary and decided to add an additional 10 days to the trip! It was felt that 60 days was just too short to cover the 14000-odd kilometers we plan to drive during the trip. The departure date will now be 20 January 2011 and we will still arrive back in Pretoria on the 31st of March 2011.

We added a night in South Africa on the way to the Botswana border (Lephalale) and two more in the vicinity of the magical Magadigadi Pans. An extra day was added between Lusaka and North Luangwa due to our concerns with road quality. An extra day was also added between North Luangwa and Dar es Salaam for the same reason.

Two extra days were added between Selous and Arusha, along with an extra day in the vicinity of Arusha to allow us to see Mt. Kilimanjaro!

Finally we added one extra day between South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi, along with two more days down the shore of Lake Malawi, limiting the rush... Only one day was removed (at Mana Pools).

Designing the Blog

The Serengeti Trip 2011 Blog is being designed and expanded as you read this post... The foundations will be completed soon and then the fun part starts - posting entries about our planning, packing and of course, the actual journey! Watch this space!!